Digital NYFW 2021: Private Policy, Helmut Lang, Prabal Gurung
PRIVATE POLICY
Pride in Culture
Private Policy chose the transcontinental railroad Chinese’s epic story because it declares existence and pride for the previous Asian generations’ phenomenal attributions. We look to them for inspiration to stand tall for who we are and welcome others to learn about Asian culture.
Private Policy Fall/Winter 2021
“We usually talk about social issues as a brand. Maybe this is the season we can inspire and encourage people to learn about the culture and history”
Private Policy Fall/Winter 2021
As we continue to live in the world of the COVID-19 pandemic, we can’t ignore the social issues and racism that has amplified this past year — especially the rise in Asian hate as many wrongfully label the pandemic as an Asian virus. For Fall-Winter 2021 collection, Private Policy brings awareness to the important yet hidden history of the 1800s Chinese transcontinental railroad workers and acknowledges the xenophobic feelings of that era, while battling similar issues today as a result of the pandemic. For their collection, designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu, are no longer silenced, people are speaking up about the past and ongoing racism, violence, and prejudice against Asian communities.
The collection was presented in partnership with the Museum of Chinese in America — beautifully placed as we peer into the historical imagery of the19th-century California Gold Rush, focusing on Chinese migrants who journeyed from the Pearl River Delta region, many of whom worked on the transcontinental railroad in the U.S. The genderless utilitarian looks of quilted details and “Wild West” remnants give a twist into modern-day 19th-century Chinese workwear. Even so, the Private Policy’s club-kid ethos is still prominent through the additions of hot pink or sage green hats, chunky silver accessories, and nylon bomber jackets — the brand’s signature additions tie the collection to the 21st century flair.
The look book closes with a graphic tee of a crane carrying a slanted-checker flag, a riff on the bald eagle carrying an American flag. The message is clear.
Helmut Lang
On the Slopes
The use of innovative material allows Helmut Lang to build on its signature details, intermixing layered fabrics and patchworks with its timeless silhouettes. This season, the brand has reworked classic shapes to offer long-lasting, cross-seasonal looks. Key items include a men’s puffer vest in a matte cotton nylon fabric, featuring contrasting silver accents.
Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2021
Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2021
As holidays have become a distant memory, Helmut Lang draws inspiration from ski season and the attire that goes along with it. Helmut Lang‘s Fall/Winter 2021 sees the brand focus on both multi-functional and multi-seasonal garment pieces. The brand prepares wearers for all weather conditions through hi-tech material and utility-emphasized pieces. Throughout the collection, materials including the double neoprene and Astro foil provide not just a sci-fi aesthetic to the piece with its matte, reflective and silver surfaces, but it provides an additional layer of padded and quilted fabric that is water-resistant and windproof.
The tracksuit is composed of slightly sheer nylon, fleece pieces and experimental patchwork. Oversized hoodies and long sleeve t-shirts are a staple to the classic sporty Helmut Lang silhouettes. Fans of the brand can still see the standard Helmut Lang essentials that make up the brand’s DNA. The FW21 collection sees the fashion house reinterpret the brand’s most dominant fabrics, such as leather, jersey and denim by deconstructing the structures through cutouts and detachable sleeves, padding and strapping details.
Prabal Gurung
remnants of 80’s prom
A color palette of black, polka dots and reds created opulent looks designed for a night on the town, echoing moments from the proms of the 80’s. the sexy cutouts, exaggerated sleeves, and layering in various looks add moments of beautiful and sexy intrigue to each look.
Prabal Gurung 2021
“I was biking from uptown to downtown and seeing trans artists and drag artists vogueing in ’80s prom dresses...the joy and hope reminded me of why I came to New York 20 years ago”
Prabal Gurung 2021
Pandemic or not, Prabal Gurug is delivering glamour embellished outfits with a twist of 80’s nostalgia — each a sexy statement. Of course, this hasn’t been a normal year since the pandemic shut everything down and we’re suddenly watching runway shows at home while in pjs, but Gurung reminds us that glamour is here to stay. Though we are deep in uncertainty, we won’t see any of the work-from-home loungewear we’ve been seeing so much of, and we can imagine the joy of dressing up soon.
To accommodate our new normals, Gurung trades in fancy gowns and silks with cotton dresses and polished blazer suits. Though channeling the same energy of extravaganza through bright reds, black and white polkadots, and floral patterns.
